Trackick Build List

I'm currently working through Brennan's Garage excellent Trackick brake conversion on the m38. The kit from Brennan is a set of brackets (two sets in my case - 4 wheel disk) that allows mounting of Geo Tracker (and the like) calipers and disks. A complete part list from RockAuto (and Amazon) is provided at the end of this article.

 

The first step is ridding the axles of the drums, hardware, and backing plates. I took the opportunity to inspect, replace, and lube all my bearings. The Trackick braket bolts to the axle using the same bolts that held the drum backing plates on (and mounts the spindles on the front).

Once the brackets are mounted and hardware is torqued to spec, the disks slide on. In my case, I did have to open up the lug holes to match my new studs. Your mileage may vary, just be aware that making parts from different vehicles fit isn't always an exact science. After the disks, it time to mount the calipers. Brennan includes mounting bolts and spacers to line everything up accordingly.

The flex hoses are Chevy S10 lines. The front's will reach the stock hard lines, while the rears will require some moddification to the hard lines to make space and accomodate the flex lines.

RockAuto parts list - full disclosure, I found the calipers local for a little cheaper in Canadian dollars
2 x DYNAMIC FRICTION 33147009
2 x DYNAMIC FRICTION 33147008
2 x CENTRIC 90848009 OE Grade
4 x DORMAN H380280

Some M10x1.0mm banjo bolts from Amazon
I went all new, but remanufactured is also an option.

For reference, I used these as vehicles:
1994 Geo Tracker for disks, calipers, and pads.
1998 Chevy s10 for flex lines.

Not putting the brakes on...yet

I mean, I'm working towards putting the brakes on, however there are building blocks to get there. 

I spent the Canada Day long weekend working on the m38. I replaced all the wheel studs (well, all except the one that I was shorted), rebuilt the front hubs with fresh bearings, and ran the new brake lines along the axles.

Next up on the list is the new master cylinder and the front and rear brake lines.

 

The order is in with the remainder of the parts needed. Calipers, pads, rotors, etc. shortly after those are in my grubby little hands the Jeep is going to have brakes. 

To be clear this will mean it has a running engine and [will have] working brakes. My driveway is about 50' long, and I sense I may be taking my first 100' road trip before the end of summer. 

 

Front axle lines installed, the kit from Omix-Ada is a pretty accurate fit

The back lines are much like the front. We'll call it a solid "good enough for this guy" fit.

The new Master Cylider is on the bench, waiting.

 

Still here. Still puttering along.

 Evidently it's been a while since I've fired up an update. 

Life and winter, but mostly winter, really cut into my garage time. I wasn't in the mood to work on damp days in the garage.

Being said, I'm back at it now that the weather is improving. So here's a quick update on where things sit. 

The TJ blew it's last hardline, and I had to deal with that. So it's now has a full set of all hardlines all around. I don't particularly like doing brake lines, but I'm oddly pretty good at it. Being said, my ancient flare tool has seen its last flare, and I was forced (buying tools, forced, HA!) to buy a new flaring tool. It's spectacular. SO much nicer than my old one.

Fortunately I also have a bleeder tool, and that just makes swapping the lines out easy enough. 

 

 

I also finally got an oil change in. Having not done one since before the pandemic, the lack of driving has resulted in a 4 year lull where I've only managed a hair under 5000kms/3100mi in that time. Still under what the Royal Purple is rated for, but time is no friend to sitting oil. 

 

 

I've also been making may way through the four corners on the m38 to convert it to disc brakes. Repacking berrings as I go, and taking note of what needs replacement. I am hoping to have an order in for the remainder of the parts this month, and have brakes on in July.

The TJ is due for a new tailpipe and some body work. Probably more than I should be trusted with, but I am a jack of all trades and a master of none. 

In any case, there's where it stands, and welcome back to anyone who pops on to read along. 

Rear Drum Brake Replacement

Every ten years or so, I need to rebuild a set of drum brakes. It serves a reminder of just how much I dislike them. They aren't hard, they aren't really complex, there are just so many bloody springs and finicky parts. 

When it comes to drum brakes, always, and I mean always, order the new hardware kit. I ultimately went with Wagner 9" brake shoes and the Carlson Rear Drum Hardware Kit. The Carlson kit was a spectacularly complete kit. Nothing had to be reused from the original hardware.
Good thing at that, considering the innards of the brakes were pretty much rusted solid and not really doing anything anymore. 

You may notice that I'm working with a jack, and a tire under the control arm as a safety device. Don't do this, it's not safe, you will die. I haven't yet, but my tire has caught my Jeep once when my Hi-Lift fell over in an emergency situation. In any case, yeah, use jack stands. 

Get the Jeep up in the air, get the tire off, and pull the drum. If you're lucky, the drum will slide right off because the brakes are shot and not working. If you're unlucky, you'll need patience, heat, choice words, and a hammer. I was lucky, my brakes were shot. 

Once the drum is off, I suggest taking a picture or two. There are a bunch of springs, levers, a cable, and an adjuster wheel. Having the pictures will help with reassembly, if you do need a reminder, just check the other side. This is why you only do one side at a time. 

These steps are not any official steps, just the way I do drums. 

Start by removing the two top springs, using a brake spring tool helps. Well worth the investment. Next remove the retainer springs. These are the round disks, just passed the halfway point down on the shoes. To remove them, put a finger on the pin behind the brakes, using pliers, push the disk in and twist to release it. Much easier than it sounds on rusty springs.
Finally, pull the shoes apart, and remove them from the backing plate. 

At this point, it's worth sitting the old set next to the new set and making sure you get the proper shoes for each side. 

Using the new hardware kit assemble the adjustment lever and spring. Apply some axle or chassis grease to the inside of the adjuster to keep it from seizing up. One point to be certain on, make sure you're using the proper adjuster. They are left and right side specific. 

Once you have the bench work done, it's time time to install the shoes.
Start with ensuring the parking brake plate is slotted in correctly (it'll be the thing that didn't come off with the shoes, and is on a cable). Next move to the retainer springs. They will cause you to use some adult language. Once done, slide in the adjuster, and the shoe to shoe spring over it. Next, I slide in the above axle cross bar, finishing with routing the adjuster cable, and top springs. (These are not official names, just saying) 

When done, slide the drum on. It should be lose. Take the drum off, and adjust the adjuster a bit and test the drum again. Keep doing that until you get a slightly snug fit. Put the tire on, and you're done.

These are meant to be some simple steps, and after following them, you too will understand why auto manufactures are moving to discs. Technically speaking, drums do provide much more stopping power. They're "self energizing", meaning that the force of the drum against the shoes, force them to grab harder (like a wedge under a door). They don't do as well with water and debris, and as you can see from reading this, a pain to work on.